Everything about Furness totally explained
Furness is a
peninsula in the southern part of
Cumbria, in north-west
England. As a socio-cultural unit, it's more loosely defined. At its widest extent, it's considered to cover the whole of
North Lonsdale, that part of the
Lonsdale hundred that's an
exclave of the
historic county borders of
Lancashire, lying to the north of
Morecambe Bay.
The area is divided into Low Furness and High Furness. Low Furness is the
peninsula; it juts out into the
Irish Sea and delineates the western edge of Morecambe Bay. The southern end of the peninsula is dominated by the bay's tidal
mudflats. The long thin island of
Walney lies off the peninsula's south-west coast. High Furness is the northern part of the area, that was part of North Lonsdale but isn't on the peninsula itself. Much of it's within the
Lake District National Park, and contains the
Furness Fells. It borders England's largest lake,
Windermere. Additionally, the
Cartmel Peninsula is often included in definitions of Furness. Strictly speaking, however, Cartmel isn't part of Furness, forming a separate peninsula between the estuaries of the rivers
Leven and
Kent. Both areas together form "Lancashire North of the Sands".
The town of
Barrow-in-Furness dominates the region with well over two thirds of its population. Other principal settlements of the region are
Ulverston,
Coniston,
Broughton-in-Furness, Cartmel,
Dalton-in-Furness and
Askam and Ireleth. The population of Furness stands at around 100,000.
History
The oldest record of its name is
Fuþþernessa about 1150. It probably came from
Old Norse Fuðarnes = "Fuði's
headland". The meaning of Old Norse
fuð makes it clear that the man's name "Fuði" is a crude shipboard nickname with sexual reference, and not a formal name given by his parents.
Evidence of
Roman inhabitation has remained low until recently, but archaeological surveys in
Urswick have suggested that the local church dates to this time, and may even have been a monastery. It has also been claimed that this was the site of the birthplace of
St Patrick. Furness was part of the
Scottish Kingdom of Strathclyde, though it has also been suggested that the local
Viking settlers were actually
Manx, rather than coming directly from
Scandinavia. By the time of the
Domesday Book, Furness was at the very north-western corner of
William the Conqueror's kingdom, disputed by
England and the Scots.
As the border moved northwards, the status of Furness became more settled and the latter
Middle Ages saw dominance by the monks of
Furness Abbey. They owned much of the local land, and built structures such as
Piel Castle. Buildings from this age are in the traditional
sandstone of the region, which was later used for the
gothic style town hall of Barrow-in-Furness in the
Victorian era. At one stage, the power and wealth of Furness Abbey was exceeded in the United Kingdom only by
Kirkstall Abbey in Leeds. However, the monastery fell to ruins during the
Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 1530s. The Abbey's lands in Furness were passed to the
Duchy of Lancaster in 1540.
Furness remained a remote farming and fishing district, accessible only across the dangerous sands of
Morecambe Bay.
William Wordsworth was among those who enjoyed the remote splendour of the area, writing a number of sonnets about local features such as Piel Castle and the
River Duddon. The highland areas of
High Furness began to experience tourism in the late 18th century, before the tourist boom of the
Victorian era.
The fortunes of Furness changed dramatically in 1840s and 1850s, when William Schneider found the second largest
iron ore deposits in the
United Kingdom at
Askam-in-Furness. Further resources were found at
Dalton-in-Furness,
Lindal-in-Furness and
Roose. The
Furness Railway was built to transport this ore, providing the area with its first safe transport route to the rest of
England.
The iron ore and steelworks were, at their time, the biggest in the world. The population of
Barrow-in-Furness rose from a few hundred to 47,000 by 1881, bypassing
Dalton-in-Furness and
Ulverston as the area's biggest town, and engulfing a number of smaller villages along the way. The Furness Railway expanded to the mining sites at
Coniston and
Greenodd, and helped develop Barrow along a unique town plan. Mining in Furness reached its peak in 1882, when 1,408,693 tons of ore were won. At the same time, the popularity of tourism in the Coniston and
Hawkshead areas increased, popularised in part by the work of
John Ruskin.
Tourism in High Furness was promoted by the writings of
Beatrix Potter in the early part of the 20th century. Potter was one of the largest landowners in the area, eventually donating her many properties to the
National Trust. In particular, sites such as
Coniston Water,
Tarn Hows and
Windermere became popular.
Iron and steel soon gave over to shipbuilding in Low Furness, with Barrow's docks becoming one of the largest in the United Kingdom. In particular,
submarine development became a speciality of the town, with the
Royal Navy's first submarines built there. During the
World Wars, this allowed Furness to escape many of the economic problems that other areas suffered, due to the constant work provided by the military. Although tourism declined, the rural areas of Furness were able to rely on agriculture for survival.
After
World War II demand for ships and submarines remained high, while the development of the
Lake District National Park fostered tourism further. Attractions such as the
Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway, steamers on Windermere and Coniston Water, and fell walking, caused parts of Furness to become dependent on the tourist trade.
In the 1980s, the decline of shipbuilding due to the end of the
Cold War led to mass redundancies in the area. The shipyard's employment figures fell from 20,000 to 3,000 in a twenty year period. However, the shipyard in Barrow remains
England's busiest and the only
nuclear submarine facility in the country. Tourism has increased even more, with the
Aquarium of the Lakes and
South Lakes Wild Animal Park among the newer attractions.
Transport has become an increasingly controversial issue, with conservation groups and local business clashing over the need for improvements to the
A590 trunk road, the main link to the
M6 Motorway. Proposals for a road bridge over
Morecambe Bay have appeared, but are yet to progress beyond the planning stages.
Geography
The Furness region consists mostly of low-lying hills, forests and flats, with some higher ground towards the north.
The highest point of the region is
Coniston Old Man at 803 m (2634
ft). Other notable summits include
Dow Crag,
Wetherlam and
Swirl How which, together with "The Old Man", are known as the
Furness Fells.
Gummer's How is a prominent hill in the east of the region.
Lakes include
Windermere,
Coniston Water and
Esthwaite Water. The wide expanse of
Grizedale Forest stands in-between these lakes.
Demographics
Settlements with population over 10,000
There are only three settlements in Furness with a population over 10,000.
Barrow which is home to around three quarters of the areas population, with
Ulverston and
Dalton following. Other notable towns with a population under 10,000 are
Coniston,
Broughton,
Cartmel, and
Askam and Ireleth.
There are no official demographic statistics for Furness, as it isn't an official district, region or county. For demographics in the largest town - Barrow -
See here, or the county - Cumbria - as a whole
see here.
Employment
Industry is the largest employer in the Furness region, and has been for over 100 years. Currently the biggest employers in the area are:
Administration
Furness was a detached part of the
historic county of
Lancashire bordering
Cumberland to the north-west and
Westmorland to the north-east (see
Three Shire Stone). It is known as "Lancashire beyond the sands [ofMorecambe Bay]" or "north of the sands" or "over the sands" as in Grange-over-Sands. The area formed the northern part of the hundred of
Lonsdale.
In 1974 Furness became part of the
shire county of
Cumbria. At the district level it now consists of
Barrow Borough and part of
South Lakeland.
Some people, particularly those born or brought up in the area, prefer to retain the designation "Lancashire".
Towns and villages
Towns and villages in Furness include:
- Aldingham, Askam-in-Furness
- Backbarrow, Bardsea, Barrow-in-Furness, Baycliff, Bouth, Broughton-in-Furness
- Cartmel, Coniston, Colton
- Dalton-in-Furness, Dendron
- Furness Abbey, Foxfield, Flookburgh
- Gleaston, Grange-over-Sands, Great Urswick and Little Urswick, Greenodd
- Haverthwaite, Hawkshead
- Ireleth
- Kirkby-in-Furness
- Lakeside, Leece, Lindal-in-Furness, Lindale
- Marton
- Newby Bridge, Near Sawrey and Far Sawrey, Newton-in-Furness
- Roose, Rampside, Roa Island
- Satterthwaite, Scales, Stainton with Adgarley, Swarthmoor
- Torver
- Ulverston
- Walney Island
See also the
Islands of Furness
Rivers and lakes
River Brathay — forms the northern boundary along with Wrynose Pass
Coniston Water
River Crake
River Duddon — forms the western boundary
Esthwaite Water
River Leven
Rusland Pool
Windermere is part of the eastern boundary of Furness
River Winster — forms the remainder of the eastern boundary
Railways
Cumbrian Coast Line
Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway
Furness Line
Furness Railway
Famous people
Sir John Barrow was born and lived in Ulverston
George Fox and Margaret Fell lived at Swarthmoor Hall near Ulverston
Emlyn Hughes, captain of Liverpool F.C. was born in Barrow
Stan Laurel was born in Ulverston
Beatrix Potter lived in Near Sawrey
St Patrick — it has been suggested that he was born in the area
George Romney, famous portrait painter was born at Dalton-in-Furness and educated at Dendron and Rampside
Lambert Simnel, a 15th-16th century pretender to the throne, landed at Piel Island
Steve Dixon was born in Barrow and lived in Newton-in-Furness
Keith Tyson, artist and Turner Prize winner, was born in Ulverston and educated in Dalton and Barrow
William Wordsworth, poet, stayed at Rampside and wrote about Piel Island.
Over 35 famous people were born or have resided in Barrow-in-Furness, for complete list see here
see Coniston Water for more people
Buildings
Holker HallFurther Information
Get more info on 'Furness'.
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